CHEER UP, SLOW DOWN, & CHILLOUT IN BYRON BAY

Ease off the accelerator, put a smile on your dial, and get set to unwind in Byron. It’s as simple as that according to an eye-catching sign as you first drive into this once hippy community.    

Although the northern New South Wales seaside town has in recent years garnered a reputation for luring the Hollywood jet set, the timeless “welcome to Byron Bay, cheer up, slow down, chillout” motto still rings true for visitors of all walks of life. And as I felt myself instantly brighten after scanning the promisingly painted words after making a recent tedious three-hour drive south, I too was ready to unwind in Byron. 

But just as I then wandered famished into a main street café those imminent feelings of chillaxing were suddenly squashed by a vagrant woman stumbling out. With brazen conviction she rudely shouted “f**k off if you’re delusional!” - just inches from my face. Like a wacky witch she’d then instantly vanished into thin air before I could assure her that I wasn’t and was left stunned at the first words uttered to me in the seemingly utopian town. 

After being consoled by a more angelic Avocado Hut hospo worker taking my falafel burger order I did nevertheless sympathise with her plight as lately the place has been overrun with superficial social media influencers whom she may have suspected I was a newbie - or even worse - a Netflix’s Byron Baes wannabe! Along with the few Hollywood celebrities who’ve raised Byron’s profile as an Aussie A-lister hangout – such as a Hemsworth brother or two being snapped online shirtless after surfing, hanging with Matt Damon, or one Zac Efron dating a greenly envied local vegan-café worker.

Sunset over Main Beach

And you can clearly see why a multitude of seachangers, influences, and celebs have long been drawn like moths to a flame to Byron’s insanely soul soothing serenity and stylish seaside town. From the awe-inspiring scenic beauty of the region affording pristine beaches, surf breaks and conservation parks, to a plethora of cool cafés, bars, boutique breweries and chic restaurants. Along with the multitude of yoga, spa and alternate health retreats dotting the roadside harking back to its hippy roots. As well as being known as the ‘style capital’ of the North Coast, and substantially less tacky than the Gold Coast just an hour or so up the highway.    

Bypassing those latter pampering distractions, I was however instantly drawn to Byron’s most famous iconic structure standing proudly upon a clifftop. And no, not Thor’s multi-million Bunnings like eyesore mansion. The more visually appealing Cape Byron Lighthouse treats visitors who either walk or drive the summit for the obligatory photo to the bay’s most breathtaking ocean and coastal vistas.  The lighthouse has graced Australia’s most easterly point for more than 100 years safely guiding ships along its treacherous coast. It’s at the centre of a conservation park that exudes panoramic beauty at every turn along it’s winding easy 3.7km walking track that can either start on the northern end on the boardwalk near town on Lighthouse Road, or on the southern side at the more remote Tallow beach. 

The easy walking track to the Cape Byron Lighthouse

I set off from Clarkes Beach on the northern side after loading up a beachside parking metre with all the $2 coins I had on me, as the credit card function was on the blink. A few hours later after getting lost in nature on the world-class walk best taken at snail’s pace, I was in for my second rude shock of the day. A $117 parking fine for being 25 minutes overtime, just four bucks short. The Shire Council officer I later spoke to blithely advised it was actually the lowest parking fine in the state. Little consolation for the cost of almost one night’s accommodation.

The conservation park walk was however well worth the price of that admission, especially if you enjoy a sea breeze on your face while watching migrating whales breach majestically along the coast. Or taking in picturesque wave lined coves and leisurely cooling off for a swim or surf year-round then this is the place to spend a good day or more exploring.

Surf break at The Pass

An aerial view of Cape Byron and Little Wategos Beach and down the coast to Tallow Beach

Hitting town for dinner or late-night cocktails you can’t go past the Beach Hotel affording front seat bay views as you enjoy some pub grub. Or select from several other diverse eateries within the compact walkable town’s centre complete with out of the way eclectic hip and romantic restaurants. Or my favourite, The Cardamom Pod, a Hare Krishna vegetarian joint one block back serving up tasty curries and salads. 

But be sure you first take in the sunset from the rocks on Main Beach’s foreshore. Although you won’t be alone, as I discovered the evening draws out Byron’s equally mesmerising bohemian circus creatures performing for the passing throngs. It’s the best time and place to experience the ‘Byron vibe’ with colourful entertainers backdropped by an illuminated sky over the pandanis tree lined coast, and soundtracked by a local bongo drummer or two.   

Byron Bay is flanked by two long secluded stretches of sand. Tallow Beach runs from Cosy Corner at the base of Cape Byron to Broken Head 9km away in the south. A great alternative if you’re searching for a quieter surf break or someplace even more serene to pitch a tent. On the flip side of Byron, North Belongil Beach is popular for surfcasting and horse-riding the untouched coast that runs twice as far north to Brunswick Heads. The entire Tyagarah shoreline is a Natural Reserve. And as I walked the sand dune onto the beach, I couldn’t help first notice a large sign alerting in bold it was not a ‘clothing optional (nude) beach’ and to keep my garments on. Being mid-winter I was more than happy to oblige. That warning however appeared to be completely disregarded by two young beachgoers who ran starkers straight into the surf as I started my walk. Apparently the legal skinny dipping designated naturist area started a hundred metres back down the secluded beach. 

North Belongil Beach and the Tyagarah Natural Reserve looking back to Byron Bay

For more modest visitors the pristine beach is still perfect for that early morning stroll as I found before heading off to one of the many weekend community, flea, or artisan markets around the place I was told about by the local Information Centre lady but couldn’t exactly remember. And there’s still more to see and explore in the surrounding hinterland, from the 100 metre plunging Minyon Falls a short half-hour drive west to the new-agey Crystal Castle where you can truly embrace your inner hippy. Either sitting in an ancient amethyst cave, being at peace with the biggest stone Blessing Buddha in Australia or taking in giant crystals and wandering five hectares of botanical Shambhala Gardens and rainforest.  

Minyon Falls

Embrace your inner hippy at Crystal Castle

If you’ve hopefully got more time in Byron Bay than the fleeting weekend I had there’s still plenty more on offer for both young and old. From fishing, surfing, skydiving, scuba diving, to timing your stay with the very popular Byron Blues Fest or Splendour in the Grass music festivals, the region has it all. And instead of being ‘delusional’ and told to f-off by the first local you meet you might just be lucky enough to spot an A-list celeb while you’re there. Or, if you’re planning on just chilling out then that’s just fine too, and exactly what Byron Bay’s famous welcome sign will first tell you to do!

- Chris Taylor